Geneva, verdict by verdict

Geneva is the international city on the lake: the Jet d'Eau arcing over the harbour, the Old Town's cathedral and squares, CERN and the UN quarter, promenades and paddle steamers along the waterfront. It is compact enough to cover on foot and works best paired with the water, whether that means lake cruises, the Lavaux vineyards, or day trips to Montreux and Chamonix.

The caveats are pace and price. Restaurants and hotels run at Swiss levels all year, evenings stay subdued outside summer, and travelers after buzzing nights or raw Alpine drama inside the city itself will find Geneva more businesslike than atmospheric. Tight budgets feel it hardest here.

One to two days covers the city itself, which earns its keep as a calm, efficient base: add days for Montreux, Chamonix or the Lavaux wine terraces strung along the lake. June to September brings cruise weather, beach clubs and terraces, December brings fondue season and markets, and winter is grey but puts the Alps within easy day-trip reach. The centre is walkable, hotels include a free transit card, and the airport train reaches Cornavin in about seven minutes.