Milan, verdict by verdict

Milan is Italy's working city rather than its postcard: finance, fashion and design on a handsome businesslike stage. The sightseeing core is compact and the hits are real, the Duomo rooftop walk among the spires, Leonardo's Last Supper in its fifteen quiet minutes, Brera's Mantegna-to-Caravaggio run, the free courtyards of Sforza Castle, and the aperitivo hour on the Navigli canals at sunset, spritz prices and all.

The catches are real too. Hotel rates are Italy's highest and can double during fashion weeks and trade fairs, winters run grey, August is hot and half shut, and the city beyond the centre is more functional than charming. The Last Supper sells out within minutes of each quarterly release and walk-ups are turned away, Galleria dining charges for the dome overhead, and the Malpensa Express has had cable-theft delays. Travelers whose Italy is built on hill towns and village squares should look elsewhere first.

Two to three days covers it: the Duomo and a well-ahead Last Supper booking, Brera and the aperitivo circuit, plus a day for Lake Como or the long, glorious Bernina Express if scenery calls. April to June and September to early October are the window. Sleep near the Duomo or Brera for the walkable version, and treat the city as the Alps-and-lakes gateway it is best at being.