Turin, verdict by verdict

Turin is Italy's most underrated big city: Savoy arcades and grand cafes, an Egyptian collection second only to Cairo's, the cinema museum inside the Mole Antonelliana's improbable spire, bicerin and gianduja in the chocolate shops, the Royal Armoury's thousands of weapons in one hall, and the Alps parked at the end of the avenues. It feels like the capital of a country that kept its elegance quiet.

The caveat is temperament: Turin is formal and reserved where Rome is warm and theatrical, winters bring reliable fog, and there is no single world-famous icon for a first-timer to tick. The Mole's panorama lift runs on timed slots released a day ahead, the Egyptian Museum's weekend slots fill so book online, the 1934 rack tram to Superga needs its own ticket, the Piemonte card excludes transport, and the last airport train leaves about 22:30.

Two days covers the Egyptian Museum, the Mole, the palaces and the cafe circuit; add Alba's truffle country on a cheap regional train or the Superga rack tram for the hill view. Sleep in the walkable centre, expect stairs and quirky old-building layouts, and come for museum people, coffee-and-chocolate people, and Italy returners tired of queues.