Krakow, verdict by verdict

Krakow is Central Europe's most complete medieval city: a main square bigger than most town centres, Wawel castle and cathedral on their hill, and Kazimierz's synagogues and bars just south of the old town. It survived the war nearly intact, and it shows: the scale feels imperial while the prices stay Polish, making it big-city sightseeing at some of Europe's lowest costs.

The other half of the trip is the dark history, and it is not optional sightseeing: Auschwitz is the reason many come and it is a heavy day that some travelers should weigh against what they can take. Winters run grey and cold, and weekend stag-party noise rings around the square. May to September is the kind window, with December's Christmas market the winter compensation.

Three to four days is the shape: two for the Old Town and Kazimierz's Jewish-quarter history and nightlife, one each for Auschwitz and the Wieliczka salt mine, or Zakopane in the mountains as the alternate day. The Old Town is pedestrianized, trams cover Kazimierz, and the airport train lands at the main station in about twenty minutes. It suits travelers who want Europe's largest medieval square and a castle on foot, at prices that leave room in the budget for the whole trip.