Amsterdam, verdict by verdict

Amsterdam is built for wandering: canal rings that look painted, gabled houses and bikes everywhere, with a world-class museum haul packed into a centre crossed on foot in half an hour. The Jordaan's cafes and the canal belt's quiet streets are as much the attraction as the Rijksmuseum, and the city is easy to love in almost any weather.

The trade-offs are money, weather and one neon strip. Hotels rank among the most expensive in Europe for what they give, the blocks around Dam Square and the red-light district run as a tourist conveyor belt, and rain is a realistic guest in any month. The Anne Frank House and Van Gogh Museum need booking weeks out, so spontaneous trips land harder here than the easygoing streetscape suggests.

Three to four days covers the museums, canals and a bike day, with Keukenhof or Zaanse Schans as the extra day; April puts the tulips within day-trip range and winter is cold and grey but cheap, with the museums never closing. Sleep on the canal belt or in the Jordaan rather than the neon centre. It suits first-time city-breakers, cafe and brown-bar people, and anyone who wants cycling to be part of the fun.