Lucerne, verdict by verdict

Lucerne is the Switzerland people picture before they arrive: a medieval old town wrapped around painted wooden bridges, a lake ringed by mountains, and two classic Alpine outings, Pilatus and Rigi, that start at the boat pier outside the station. The Kapellbrucke and Spreuerbrucke cross the Reuss between frescoed gables, and paddle steamers still run the lake fleet out to Alpnachstad, Vitznau and beyond.

The cautions are price, crowds and clouds. It is expensive even by Swiss standards, the Kapellbrucke and the Lion Monument draw dense day-trip crowds, and the mountain trips hinge on weather, since a grey day halves the value of both Pilatus and Rigi. The city's own sights fill about a day and nights run quiet, so it works as a base for lake and peaks more than as a destination in itself.

Two to three days is the right dose: old town, bridges, walls and the Lion Monument on one, Pilatus or Rigi on the next, a lake cruise or the transport museum to finish. For a short Swiss trip it is the single most efficient base, one hour by direct train from Zurich airport, and it suits travelers who want the mountain, lake and old town package in one walkable centre.