City guide / Scotland

Edinburgh, verdict by verdict

Edinburgh is Britain's most dramatic city after London. Our verdicts cover Palace of Holyroodhouse, Loch Ness and Royal Yacht Britannia, the airport route and where to stay.

Edinburgh Castle on its rock above the old town rooftops
Photo: Saffron Blaze, CC BY-SA 3.0 (source)

Explore the decisions

Sights and tickets

5 verdicts

Explore the decisions

Day trips

1 verdict

Explore the decisions

Big choices

2 verdicts
Tracks and platforms at Edinburgh Waverley station below Calton HillLondon to Edinburgh: train or flight?Our pick: LNER
Photo: John MacKenzie, CC BY-SA 2.0 (source)
A Georgian street in Edinburgh's New TownWhere should you stay in Edinburgh?Our pick: New Town
Photo: Ralf Steinberger from Milan, Berlin + Munich, Italy + Germany, CC BY 2.0 (source)

The review

Edinburgh in short

Edinburgh is Britain's most dramatic city after London: a castle on volcanic rock, the medieval Royal Mile dropping past closes and churches to Holyrood, the Georgian symmetry of the New Town below, and a real hill, Arthur's Seat, in the middle of the city. All of it is walkable in a weekend, and the skyline is the kind that stays with you.

The caveats are crowds and climbs. August's festivals and Hogmanay sell out months ahead at steep prices, the Old Town is a constant up and down over steep streets, stairs and closes that punish limited mobility, and the weather can turn inside an hour in any season. Travelers who need reliable skies to enjoy a trip should know the odds going in.

Two to three days covers castle to palace: the Royal Mile and the New Town, a hill walk up Arthur's Seat, the wynds taken slowly rather than the sights rushed. Add a day for Leith or a Loch Ness trip, or pair it with Glasgow on a wider Scotland itinerary. May to September brings the long days and the best weather odds; festival month is both the prize and the price.

Go if

  • Castle, Royal Mile and a skyline you will not forget
  • Festival season, Hogmanay or a whisky-focused trip
  • A walkable city with a real hill in the middle
  • Pairing with Glasgow or a Highlands itinerary

Skip if

  • August or New Year crowds and prices put you off
  • Steep streets, stairs and closes are a mobility issue
  • You need reliable weather to enjoy a trip
When to go
May to September for long days and the best weather odds; August is festival month, packed and pricey. Hogmanay needs booking far ahead.
How long
2 to 3 days: castle and Royal Mile, the New Town, a hill walk; add a day for Leith or a Loch Ness day trip.
Getting around
Walkable but hilly; buses and the tram cover the gaps. The airport tram and Airlink bus reach Princes Street in about 35 minutes.

Where to stay

Hotels that fit this trip in Edinburgh

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In pictures

Edinburgh, frame by frame

Keep exploring

If Edinburgh works for you

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