Athens, verdict by verdict

Athens earns its reputation in a single afternoon: the Acropolis on its rock, the museum that finally gives the marbles their context, and a centre where ancient sites sit inside an ordinary, working Mediterranean city. Below the postcard layer there is real depth, with neighbourhood tavernas, serious archaeology and hills with sunset views at prices below most Western capitals.

The catch is the city itself: concrete-heavy, traffic-rough and hot for half the year, with the classic centre around Monastiraki tipping into souvenir strip. Travelers wanting a polished, orderly city with quiet streets and greenery will strain against it, high-summer heat and heavy crowds can spoil the days, and beaches and resort downtime are not what this trip is for.

Two to three days is right: one for the Acropolis, museum and Plaka, one for the other sites and a neighbourhood evening, plus a day for Cape Sounion or an island run. The metro covers the airport, Piraeus and the coast, and the Acropolis area is pedestrianised. It suits travelers who want ancient history inside a real, lived-in city and a launchpad for the Saronic coast and islands.