City guide / Italy
Sardinia is Italy's second-largest island, with the white sand and clear water of the Costa Smeralda and the Maddalena archipelago in the north, Cagliari and the Chia beaches in the south, and a mountainous interior of nuraghe stone towers and shepherd villages in between. Our guide covers who it suits, when to go, the airports and where to stay.
The review
Clear water, granite coves and mountain villages, now with beach quotas that reward planning ahead.
Sardinia is worth it if the sea is the point of the trip and you will plan around it. The coverage we found keeps returning to the same picture: coves with very clear water, a coast made for boat days, and an interior of villages that come alive on autumn weekends. It suits couples, friends and families who want a beach holiday with real scenery, and travelers who like a road trip built around one or two bases.
The hard truth is that the famous beaches now run on rules. News coverage of the 2026 season describes towel bans, pre-booked tickets and entry fees at the popular beaches, with on-the-spot fines of about EUR 100 for towel and mat breaches and far larger penalties for taking sand. La Pelosa near Stintino has a reported cap of 1,500 visitors a day and a EUR 3.50 ticket, and an analysis of review complaints put it at the top of a global chart for crowding. Cala Goloritze on the east coast is booked too. Turning up on the day in July or August is the mistake to avoid.
The fix is to choose one region, book the capped beaches as soon as your dates are fixed, and travel outside July and August where you can. The airports sit in three corners of the island, so pick the airport that matches your region and avoid long cross-island drives. Check each beach's own booking page before you go, because fees, caps and rules changed again for 2026 and copycat ticket sites exist.
The long read
The sea is the reason to come, and in 2026 it comes with rules. News coverage of the island's beach regulations describes towel bans, pre-booked tickets and entry fees at the most popular beaches, with on-the-spot fines of about EUR 100 for towel and mat breaches and penalties of hundreds to thousands of euros for taking sand. Think of the signature beaches as timed attractions, not places you drift into.
La Pelosa near Stintino is the clearest example. Coverage puts the daily cap at 1,500 visitors with a ticket of EUR 3.50, and an analysis of review complaints reported in 2025 ranked it first in the world for crowding, with nearly 87 percent of negative reviews mentioning crowds. Use the official municipal ticket portal only: a May 2026 local report warned that a copycat site was reselling tickets at inflated prices.
Cala Goloritze in the Gulf of Orosei works the same way. The official cove site says that since summer 2025 access to the Costa di Baunei beaches is regulated and that anyone landing from their own or a rented boat must book and show a QR code. Only rowing boats may land, so passenger boats cannot let visitors off on the beach, though tour boats pass in front of it. Check the booking page for the current fee and window, and book early. An October 2026 diary found Cala Luna and Cala Mariolu beautiful but much busier, and liked boat-only Cala Esuili best.
Punta Molentis near Villasimius has its own 2026 rules. Coverage of the June ordinance describes a ban on umbrellas, tents and gazebos from 6 June except for families with young children and over-65s, a EUR 10 charge for arrivals by land and EUR 5 by sea, and caps of 150 people and 70 cars. Check the Villasimius notice before each visit.
The diaries and forum posts we found split the island into bases rather than one loop. A September 2026 diary starts in Cagliari and suggests 2 to 3 nights there at most for many tourists, then calls Cala Gonone on the east coast a must, with famous beaches such as Cala Luna. Cala Gonone is the base for the Gulf of Orosei by sea.
Alghero works as a slow base in the north west. A family diary from October 2026 describes about two weeks there with few sights planned, mostly swimming and volleyball. Another September 2026 diary lands at Alghero for a few introductory nights, finds a festival with giant puppets and folk music, and notes pleasant late-September daytime temperatures of about 85 degrees F before moving north to the national park. The same September diary visits Bosa, a short drive down the coast. A forum reply from April 2026 names Santa Teresa di Gallura and Alghero as beach towns with easy beach access.
The Maddalena archipelago is the north east's boat country, and it has its own park rules. A 2025 local report describes too many yachts and moorings in places such as Porto Madonna, Porto Palma and Cala Corsara, and plans for tighter anchoring rules in fragile areas, so check the park's current ordinance and pick an operator that follows it. An October 2026 diary found La Maddalena the favorite part of a four-day trip, a place that immediately felt like a holiday, and a traveler who drove the whole island described a favorite boat day among hundreds of similar boats.
Be selective on the Costa Smeralda. One October 2026 diary found Porto Cervo too polished for more than an hour or two and San Pantaleo more tourist-oriented than expected. A June 2026 diary based at Pittulongu got by without a car but wished for one, and recommends reaching the beach by about 8 a.m. in summer. In Cagliari, another June 2026 diary found heavy tourism in the historic centre and marina area, though not Rome or Venice levels.
Cagliari is the easiest start without a car. The airport has its own station about a five-minute walk from the terminal, and the airport operator lists trains about every 20 minutes from about 5 in the morning until after 9 at night, a ride of about 5 to 7 minutes to the central station and a fare of EUR 1.30. A daytime taxi has a listed minimum fare of EUR 17, so the train is the better choice if your bags are manageable.
At Alghero the city centre is roughly 10 km from the airport, about 15 minutes by car. Public buses run by ARST stop on the right side of the airport, about 150 m from the arrivals entrance, and a ticket machine stands outside the terminal. A 24-hour taxi switchboard covers the airport. The airport page sends you to the ARST site for bus fares, so confirm the price there.
Olbia airport is about 4 km from the city centre. City bus lines 2 and 10 run daily between the terminal and the centre, with tickets from the arrivals machine, a phone app or SMS; check the operator timetable for frequency. The taxi rank lists a minimum fare of EUR 15 into Olbia. Intercity coaches link the airport with towns such as Arzachena, Telti and Sassari, and some run only in season. Strikes hit Olbia and Alghero airports for part of a day in July 2026, so keep a buffer on strike days.
When the beach quotas end, the interior takes over. Autunno in Barbagia is an annual series of weekend festivals in the villages of the Nuoro mountains. The regional tourism site lists the 2026 edition as running from 5 September to 13 December, so it is still under way, with Dorgali's weekend on 26 and 27 September already past. The village calendar shifts each year, so check the official calendar for the next edition.
Dorgali is the municipality that includes Cala Gonone, so a coast stay and a village weekend can share one trip. A late-September 2026 diary described pleasant daytime temperatures of about 85 degrees F, while a traveler who drove the whole island says many restaurants close from the first week of October to May. Resorts on the Costa Smeralda are the most seasonal, so check opening dates for a specific property before building a late-season plan around it, and consider a base in a larger town such as Cagliari, Alghero or Olbia.
Luxury picks cluster in four places: the Costa Smeralda for beachfront resorts, Chia for a lagoon and dune setting in the south, and the headland outside Alghero. Mid-range picks give you a base in Alghero, Cagliari, Villasimius and Cala Gonone. Budget picks sit in the old town areas of Cagliari and Alghero and in Olbia city centre, which suits an early ferry or flight.
Our picks use no prices because rates swing widely between peak summer and the shoulder months, and a 2026 consumer survey found a weekly umbrella with two sunbeds at Alghero up 14 percent on 2025. Search your dates, compare cancellation terms, and favor places with parking if you rent a car for the beaches.
The pitfalls
La Pelosa has a reported cap of 1,500 visitors a day and a EUR 3.50 ticket. A May 2026 local report warned that a copycat website was reselling tickets at inflated prices, so buy only through the official municipal portal.
The official cove site says access to the Costa di Baunei beaches has been regulated since summer 2025. Anyone landing from their own or a rented boat must book and show a QR code, and only rowing boats may land, so passenger boats cannot let visitors off on the beach.
News coverage of the 2026 rules describes towel bans, pre-booked tickets and entry fees at the popular beaches, with on-the-spot fines of about EUR 100 for towel and mat breaches and much larger penalties, reported up to EUR 3,500, for taking sand. Punta Molentis charges EUR 10 for arrivals by land and caps visitors at 150 people and 70 cars, so check each beach's current rules.
Airport staff strikes affected Olbia and Alghero for part of a day in July 2026, and a May 2026 local report put Livorno to Olbia ferry fares up 22 percent for an armchair seat and 29 percent for a cabin on 2025. Book transport early and check the operator page for fares and strike days.
From Cagliari airport the train to the central station takes about 6 minutes at a listed fare of EUR 1.30, while a daytime taxi has a minimum fare of EUR 17. At Olbia the city bus stops outside the terminal and the taxi minimum is EUR 15, so match the transfer to your bags and arrival time.
A July 2026 diary advises a rental car because the island is large and some of the more beautiful beaches sit at the end of unpaved roads. A June 2026 diary managed without one around Pittulongu but says a rental would have reached more beaches, villages and wineries, and arrived by about 8 a.m. to secure a beach spot. Plan the car or a boat day before you land.
When to go
Best time
June and September
Crowding complaints and the strictest beach rules center on peak summer, so these months give the best chance at the capped beaches. Rules still apply: Punta Molentis runs a daily quota with an entry charge and La Pelosa tickets are needed from mid-May into October.
Peak season
July and August
A 2025 analysis of review complaints put La Pelosa first in the world for crowding, and summer 2026 brought the strictest beach controls and strike days at the main airports.
Off season
Late October to March
Many restaurants close from the first week of October, but cities such as Cagliari, Alghero and Olbia stay open and the interior has its own calendar. Autunno in Barbagia runs through the Nuoro villages from early September to mid-December.
Crowding complaints and the strictest beach rules center on peak summer, so June and September are the easier months for the capped beaches. Rules still apply outside the peak: Punta Molentis runs a daily quota with an entry charge, and La Pelosa tickets are needed from mid-May into October. For the interior, the autumn village festivals run from early September to mid-December, and many restaurants close from the first week of October.
Getting there and around
| Airport | Distance | To the centre | How |
|---|---|---|---|
| OLB Olbia Costa Smeralda Airport | 4 km | about 15 min | City bus lines 2 and 10 run daily between the terminal and Olbia centre, with tickets from the arrivals machine, an app or SMS. The taxi rank lists a minimum of EUR 15 into Olbia. Coaches run to Arzachena, Telti and Sassari, some only in season. Check the operator page for current timetables and fares. (source, checked Oct 2026) |
| AHO Alghero-Fertilia Airport | 10 km | about 15 min | About 15 minutes by car to the city centre, roughly 10 km. ARST buses stop about 150 m from the arrivals entrance, with a ticket machine outside the terminal, and a 24-hour taxi switchboard serves the airport. Bus fares are on the ARST site, so check there before you travel. (source, checked Oct 2026) |
| CAG Cagliari Elmas Airport | 7 km | about 10 min | The Elmas Aeroporto station is about a five-minute walk from the terminal. The train to Cagliari central station takes about 5 to 7 minutes, with trains about every 20 minutes from about 5 in the morning until after 9 at night and a EUR 1.30 fare. A daytime taxi has a listed minimum of EUR 17. Check the operator page for current times. (source, checked Oct 2026) |
The coves in this guide sit off the rail line, so most itineraries pair a base with a rental car. Cagliari airport has its own train station: the ride to the central station takes about 5 to 7 minutes and the operator page lists a EUR 1.30 fare. At Olbia, city bus lines 2 and 10 run daily from the airport. At Alghero, ARST buses stop about 150 m from arrivals. Ferries serve Livorno and Civitavecchia to Olbia and Genoa to Porto Torres, with 2026 Livorno to Olbia fares reported up on 2025, so check the operator page.
Where to stay
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Costa Smeralda (Arzachena)
Hotel PitrizzaA beachfront resort on the Costa Smeralda with a pool and spa. It is seasonal: listings show it closed from about 10 October to 20 May, so check opening dates and the current brand before booking.
Check rates on Expediapartner siteCosta Smeralda (Porto Cervo)
Hotel Cala di VolpeA Luxury Collection resort on the Cala di Volpe bay, listed among the top hotels on the Costa Smeralda. Check season dates before you plan around it.
Check rates on Expediapartner siteChia (south coast)
Conrad Chia Laguna SardiniaA five-star resort at Chia with two outdoor pools, a children's pool and free parking, in the lagoon and dune area of the south.
Check rates on Expediapartner siteAlghero headland
Villa Las Tronas Hotel & SpaA five-star hotel on the headland about half a mile from downtown Alghero, with a pool and spa. Guests praise the staff and the food.
Check rates on Expediapartner siteThe comfortable middle: well placed, well run, priced for a normal trip.
Villasimius
Hotel Simius PlayaA four-star beach hotel in Villasimius, with breakfast, WiFi and parking included. A calm base for the south east coast.
Check rates on Expediapartner siteAlghero
Hotel CatalunyaA four-star hotel close to the beach in Alghero, with boat tours and snorkeling nearby. A good base for the north west.
Check rates on Expediapartner siteCagliari Marina, Via Roma
Miramare Cagliari Hotel MuseoA four-star hotel on Via Roma near the port, with a bar, parking and pet-friendly rooms. Handy for the old town and the ferry port.
Check rates on Expediapartner siteCala Gonone
Hotel Costa DoradaA beach hotel on the Lungomare Palmasera in Cala Gonone, with free breakfast and WiFi. The base for boat trips into the Gulf of Orosei.
Check rates on Expediapartner siteCheaper beds that travelers still rate well for location and cleanliness.
Alghero old town
Hotel San FrancescoHoused in a former convent around a 14th century cloister in the Alghero old town. Guests praise the staff and the location, and say the rooms are plain and small. Listings show a winter closure, so check dates.
Check rates on Expediapartner siteCagliari Marina
Cagliari Marina Guesthouse & LoungeA guesthouse in the Marina district of Cagliari where a guest called the staff amazing. Walking distance to the old town and port.
Check rates on Expediapartner siteCagliari old town
Le Residenze di CarlaA guest found the room clean and tidy with everything needed, and within walking distance of the old town and shopping.
Check rates on Expediapartner siteOlbia city centre
Antares Rooms and SuitesA central Olbia stay where reviewers praise the location and cleanliness. Useful for an early ferry or flight or a night before the Costa Smeralda.
Check rates on Expediapartner siteQuestions
For the best-known ones, yes. La Pelosa needs a ticket and a reservation, and Cala Goloritze needs a booked visit with a QR code if you land by your own boat. Check each beach's official booking page for fees and windows, and avoid copycat sites.
Take the train from the station inside the airport. The operator lists a ride of about 6 minutes to the central station, trains about every 20 minutes and a EUR 1.30 fare. A daytime taxi has a listed minimum of EUR 17.
Match the airport to your region. Olbia suits the north east and the Costa Smeralda, Alghero the north west and Cagliari the south. Crossing the island between regions costs days, so book your flights to the region you will stay in.
An annual series of weekend festivals in the villages of the Nuoro mountains. The 2026 edition runs from 5 September to 13 December 2026, per the regional tourism site, so it is still under way. Dates for each village change by year, so check the official calendar.
Yes. Routes named in 2026 reports include Livorno to Olbia, Civitavecchia to Olbia and Genoa to Porto Torres. A May 2026 local report put Livorno to Olbia up 22 percent for an armchair seat and 29 percent for a cabin on 2025, so check the operator pages for current fares and book cabins early.
Most beaches and coves sit off the rail line, so most itineraries use a rental car. Cagliari is simple without one, thanks to the airport train, and Alghero works as a slow base. Check bus and train timetables carefully for anything else.
How this guide was written. We read 20 traveler reports about Sardinia published between Aug 2025 and Oct 2026, 8 of them mainly negative, and checked the facts against official sources in Oct 2026. Nobody on the team claims a visit; hotel picks are chosen from what guests report, never from what they pay us. How we judge.
Our first Sardinia verdicts are on the way.
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