Malta, verdict by verdict

Malta packs an absurd amount into 316 square kilometres: a baroque capital built by crusading knights, the Barrakka panorama over the Grand Harbour, St John's co-cathedral's barrel vault and 400-tomb inlaid floor, temples older than the pyramids at the Hypogeum, Mdina's free walled ramparts, and lagoon water warm enough to swim from April to October. English is an official language, the ferries are cheap, and a day on Gozo or the Blue Lagoon is the island's deep breath.

The straightforward caveat is density: Malta is built-up, not a sleepy island. The famous sandy spots are few and wall-to-wall by late morning, Valletta is steep underfoot, summer heat stacked on cruise crowds can be punishing, the Hypogeum sells out months ahead in season, Paceville's clubs run to 4am through St Julian's rooms, and the buses are cheap, slow and luggage-hostile. Anyone after long beaches, rural coastline or a big-city museum list should recalibrate.

Base in Valletta or Sliema and give it four or five days: two or three around the harbour cities, a day on Gozo's free Cittadella ramparts, half a day for Mdina or the Blue Lagoon, strung together by ferries, Bolt rides and the slow buses. April to June and September to October hit the sweet spot of warm water and thinner crowds.