Montpellier, verdict by verdict

Montpellier is southern France without the Riviera markup: a medieval Ecusson quarter of shaded squares and wine bars spinning out from the Place de la Comedie, where street performers work the terraces until late. The Fabre museum holds one of France's finest provincial collections, old masters through Courbet, Bazille and Soulages, and the Jardin des Plantes has been growing since 1593 as the country's oldest botanical garden. Beyond the stone core, Mediterranean beaches sit a tram-and-walk ride away, with the Travers and Maguelone sands beating kitschy Palavas in season.

The fair trade-offs: the coastline is lagoon-flat rather than postcard cliffs, the famous beach clubs are a transit hop rather than on your doorstep, and midsummer heat can be relentless inside the car-free stone streets. There is no single blockbuster sight; the Ecusson itself is the attraction, which means travelers wanting a checklist city may finish it fast. Watch the details too: the Fabre closes Mondays with rooms emptying by 17:45, the Jardin des Plantes opens late and shuts Mondays, and arrivals at Sud de France station rather than Saint-Roch add fifty minutes to the centre.

Two days covers the Comedie, the Ecusson lanes, the Fabre and an evening at the Peyrou promenade; add Sete or the jaw-dropping Pont du Gard for a third, or the oysters-and-fougasse food tour if Languedoc wine is the point. Sleep inside the Ecusson to have the squares on your doorstep after dark, accepting the weekend cafe noise as the cover charge.